The grande dame of Budapest coffee houses, on the city's finest square.
Since 1858 it has held the best corner of the best square, and it knows it. The rooms are all marble, mirrors, and gilt; the cakes — the Dobos, the Eszterházy — are made the way they were a century ago. Yes, it's touristy. The room is the point.
Come mid-afternoon, order a single slice and a coffee, and take a table deep inside rather than out on the square. You're paying for the setting, so let yourself have it.
Skip the terrace scrum — the belle-époque salons at the back are quieter and far more beautiful.
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